HOW TO THE OF A
It is advisable to check the water-cooling system at least twice a year or every 6,000 miles, removing any dead insects or dirt blocking the air flow through the fins and inspecting hoses for cracks, kinks or perishing all signal weakness.
Most ant-freeze solutions are good for two years’ use, but before starts, the strength of the ant-freeze should be checked a garage can do this by measuring its with a special and fresh anti-freeze added if necessary.
When the time comes to change the anti-freeze any deposits in the should be flushed out after draining.
Draining the involves:
- Place the heater control to ‘hot’, or fully open the cylinder head water to prevent air locks. If the anti-freeze is to be re-used, an old bowl will catch the coolant.
- Remove the radiator cap or plug slowly, using a large pad of folded cloth to protect your hands if the system is hot. Undo any air bleed valves (but do not them).
- Open the or tap, if fitted, and the or tap on the cylinder , the handbook will show its location. If there is no or tap, disconnect the bottom hose to let the water out.
- If water trickles slowly from a tap or , it is probably blocked by sediment which can be dislodged by prodding with a piece of .
STEPS IN FLUSHING AND CLEANING THE
- Look through the filler hole. If the tubes are covered with scale deposits, use a proprietary cleaning compound to loosen them, following the maker's instructions.
- Flush the by hosing water at mains pressure through the filler hole. If the flow through the bottom hose stub is restricted, it will be necessary to back-flush the . Push a hose into the bottom stub (wrap it in the rag to prevent leakage). Turn on the tap and run it until the water runs out of the filler hole. In some cases, it may be necessary to the , turn it upside down and again back-flush it by hosing water in through the bottom hose stub. If this does not improve the flow of water and the persistently overheats, take it to a specialist to de-scale it using a powerful alkaline solution.
- Clean the outside of the with plenty of water and a soft-bristled brush to any debris blocking the air flow.
- To flush the heater, disconnect the two heater hoses at the . One will be clipped to the cylinder head or inlet manifold and the other will be attached near the water pump with the heater control on ‘hot’ or the cylinder head water open, fit the mains hose to the heater hose disconnected from the pump. Continue flushing until clear water emerges.
- The thermostat must come out in order to flush the cylinder . On most , it is located under a housing at the cylinder head end of the top hose. Unbolt the housing, it, and scrape away the around the edge of the thermostats. The thermostat should now lift out. It may be corroded firmly in place. If so, scraping debris from the edge of the thermostat using a small screwdriver will allow it to be lifted.
- Disconnect the bottom hose at the water pump end. Insert the mains hose into the thermostat hole and turn on the water. There should be an unrestricted flow from the bottom hose stub. Flush until clear water emerges. Reassemble by reversing the sequence.
Originally posted 2018-07-26 08:37:22.
A mechanical engineer and an NDT inspector by profession. However, I love blogging and sharing of knowledge for human intellectual development, especially relating to engineering fields, environment, and science trending updates. “Engineeringall.com” is a platform for any individual with similar passion, to do so; use the “PUBLISH YOUR ARTICLE” page at the MENU to share your personal ideas, researched knowledge, or discovered incidents, etc.to those in the engineering & & the general online communities across the globe. If you love this post please share using the social buttons below.