Steady-bar rubbers are vital auxiliary parts of the that help in reducing vibrations and shock impact to the during operation. When the rubbers are worn out, the will rock excessively causing judder and putting an unnecessary strain on the exhaust system.
Changing the rubbers regularly will help prolong the life of the engine and reduce the breakdown maintenance cost. The rubbers usually have a bolt across its center for tensioning purpose and other arrangements which is based on the manufacturer’s preferences.
Meanwhile, in the case that you want to change or fit the existing rubber properly in its position, here are the procedures:
- the fixing bolt at the center of the rubber and loosen the cover bracket. The both parts can be found on the cylinder head of the .
- Swing the steady bar clear, and push the old rubbers from the eye.
- Use your to fit the new rubbers and its sleeve. In the case of any difficulty, use washing-up liquid to coat them so that they can enter properly into the position meant for it.
- The next step is to fit the center sleeve, re-assemble the bracelet and the fixing bolt and tighten the bolts.
Meanwhile, when it comes changing the , the job may become a little tedious than when fitting the rubbers. If an leaks especially because of a loosed nut or bolt, the from the exhaust can find its way back into the chamber. Such will risk the life and overall performance.
Besides being sucked the inlet manifold, the can also drift into the and create a disturbance. A leaking will make a distinct shuffling sound and the hot fume escaping form the gap can be felt with the palm if it is brought close to it.
Loosed nuts and bolts are not the only cause of such leakage. Weakened or damaged can cause similar problem. Infarct, 50% of leakages occurring within the manifold can be traced to problems. It could be that the was wrongly positioned, damaged, or weak.
The first step of handling any leakage problem within the manifold is to identify the cause. The best approach to this will be tightening all the nuts and bolts properly first and then if the leak still persist. If the answer means yes, then changing the will be the next option.
Sometimes can help prevent leakage even when the bolts or nuts are not complete or not torqued properly.
Some have a combination of the inlet and together in such, their air cleaner will be removed first before accessing the manifold. In some cases, it may become necessary to disconnect the throttle and choke controls at the if they are anchored to the manifold.
Meanwhile, there are steps to be taken when trying to change the of access the based on leakage problems. Here are the known steps:
- If the manifold has never been removed before, put a penetrating oil or liquid solutions like the WD-40 series. Apply the liquid to the base of all the bolts or nuts in the manifold to help weaken the stiffness and make it easy to loose. Sometimes it may be necessary to allow the oil or solution to stay up to 24 hours to have a deeper penetration into the base of the threads in the manifold.
- Using a suitable socket spanner, remove the nuts or bolts that hold the manifold together and ensure you do not damage the head of any of the bolts or nuts otherwise it may be hard to torque it later.
- Gradually and carefully separate the manifold from the main body of the to access its connecting it with the (cylinder head). In some design, the downpipe to the exhaust system will restrict of the manifold. In that case, loosen the clamp between the manifold and the downpipe.
- Reach out and the and use a smooth sandpaper to clean up the flanges of both side using a solution like the WD-40 to ensure all traces of the removed cannot be found on the surfaces of the two flanges. Do not do this with a sharp object or rough sandpaper because it may cause further problem of leakage.
- Insert the new into the required position and ensure that both surfaces are dry. Refit the parts of the manifold and if the is seating properly before inserting the bolts or inserting a nut.
- While tightening, use the hand first for all the nuts or bolts before applying spanner to torque it.
- Tighten the manifold firmly with suitable spanner or the exact size of the head of the bolts or nuts, sometime socket spanners seem to be the best for this purpose since it provides easy access to all the parts of the manifold and gives higher torque range.
- In the case where the downpipe was loosed, re-tighten it and reconnect the throttle and choke controls. Also refit the air cleaner removed during the process.
Originally posted 2018-08-27 09:43:04.
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